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Saturday July 27        Cycling Day 20

Coal River ( BC) to Muncho Lake (BC)

Distance:  (Km). 113

Time:  5:53

Average Speed: (Km/ hr). 19.37

Ascent:  (m). 954

Heart Rate: (beats / min). 110

Cumulative Distance:   (km). 2190

Cumulative Ascent :  (m). 17,275

Punctures so far : 0

All very anxious to get under way today. Breakfast is normally at 7:30 on the dot but this morning by 7:00 everyone had tents down and packed and loaded on the truck and sitting about drinking hot freshly brewed coffee. So breakfast was called early...unusual.

So all out on the road by 7:30 on a day scheduled for just over 100 km and cyclists spread out over the early kms. It was overcast but the sun soon broke through and cleared the sky. Then in mid-morning there was the odd drop flying about but no rain. We did have heavy rain from 70 to 85 km and at that time no option but to keep on. No shelter available and those trees were 50 metres away through long wet grass. Later there was rain again as I came into camp (McDonalds) y Muncho Lake at 3 pm. Arrived feeling wet and miserable but hot soup and a clearing sky soon changed my mood.

At 30 km I came across a group that had cycled from Texas to here in a fundraising effort for a cancer group. Strangely, they were having their morning break on this stretch of straight road.

Till lunch break at 58 km we were cycling down the Liard River valley with very little ascent. Easy to add on the kms with that combined with the lovely views.

Lunch was across the road from the Liard River Hot Springs. Naturally lunch was welcome but some availed of the opportunity to dip in those natural sulphur springs -totally natural waist-deep hot springs that are open all year and temperatures varying from 32 to 52 deg. $5 just to enter the park even to walk about. There was a long boardwalk across the swamp to the springs themselves. Along here one could sense the extra heat and the smell of sulphur. Since I had paid my $5 I waded into the hottest pool. The other who ventured across the road gave it the full treatment starting in the hot Alpha pool and ended in the cooler pool below the waterfall. The hot springs do not exit into a creek but into a swamp. I’m glad that I spent a while there rather than just cycling on, as many others did.

Shortly after lunch I crossed over the Liard River Suspension Bridge, the only one of its type that we have met. A few kms after this the road was to rise and cross over to the valley of the Trout River.

Before this climb, Sven (Toronto) and I spotted a bison off to the left but he was most unaccommodating in keeping his backside to the road, so no chance of a decent photo.

But we had scarcely moved another km when another one appeared ahead on the right. We stopped in our tracks. It crossed the road slowly up ahead and started walking in our direction on the far side of the road. We silently kept our ground and he just passed by minding his own business. My hand was extra steady this time and got a decent image. Once he had passed , we moved on quickly not looking back.

Two very distinct demanding climbs today. The first on - shortly after the bison at 66km- lasted for 3 kmand a general gradient of 5%. Not too demanding as it was still dry and not too warm. Once on top and into a new valley the heavens opened as described already. 

For the second climb (at 90 km) the rain had completely gone. It was 3.5 km with a gradient of 9% near the top. Viewed from a distance it was daunting but it was conquered in time. Every day has its ups and downs but that second one stands out.

Today we have definitely moved into a more scenic area. Lovely valleys between hoping peaks, some with pine trees to the top and others of pure naked rock. We are now into the northern tip of the Canadian Rockies.

At 110 km there was a spectacular viewing point above Muncho Lake but the darkening sky and threatening rain took from what we should have seen. Muncho Lake means ‘big lake’  and is 12 km long, one of the largest natural lakes in the Canadian Rockies. It is renowned for its jade green colour attributed to the presence of copper oxide leached from the bedrock below and the incoming creeks. That jade colour wasn’t visible from the viewing point but touches of it are visible here from camp.

Our campsite is right on the lakeside with spectacular views in all directions. I got the tent up during a dry spell and even had some clothes out to dry. The lake again was a handy washing spot in its clear water just 10 metres from the tent.

However another thunder and lightning storm came rapidly down from the northern end of the lake and all rushed for the tents for the duration - 30 mins.

 It blew over as rapidly as it had arrived and by dinner time (6:00) brilliant warm sunshine allowing us to eat by the beach. God only knows what’s in store for us during the night.

I hope tomorrow continues with more of this scenery but less of the rain.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.