Saturday July 13 Cycling Day 9
Tombstone Mountain (Y) to Dawson City (Y)
Distance: (Km) 111
Time: 5:13
Average Speed: (Km/ hr). 21.37
Ascent: (m). 313
Heart Rate: (beats / min). 104
Cumulative Distance: (km). 932
Cumulative Ascent : (m). 8112
Punctures so far : 0
Plenty of rain last night but no wind. Dry and calm as we arose around 6 am and packed up; granted the fly sheets were soaked but they could be sorted out later in the day. I had a roll of bin- liners with me so all could be packed away without soaking the rest of the bag. Clever Dick!Breakfast was relaxed and pleasant with each trying to stand in a spot where the sun was shining. ( We still have daylight for 20+ hours and just dusk for the remainder. I have ‘blindfold’ to simulate darkness and help me to fall to sleep. Has worked so far, assisted by a book.....I have finished one so far)
Early out on the road and it was gloriously warm when in the sunshine. Walker and I rode together again today for the duration with some others joining in for stretches. Today was more descent than ascent. We dropped over 1000 m but there were a few sharp uphills around the 400 km mark.
Trees looked a bit healthier as we descended. Far different to those spindly ones we saw up near Inuvik. And the further we dropped the better they looked.
It was possible to view the scenery more today than yesterday. Yesterday I mentioned the atmospheric haze. But in camp last night locals said that it was actually smoke pollution from a number of forest fires, one in particular near Dawson. But definitely clearer today.Warm early on today but chilled a bit as the day went on. Wind wasn’t a factor for the first 70 km, the descent was enough to distract. This evening in Dawson it’s warmly sunny and pleasant.
Because of last night’s rain the road was devoid of dust but puddly in places and gluey where it looked dry. It was important to select the tight line to avoid the puddle on the one hand and the loose gravel on the other.Eventually, eventually we came within sight of the end of the gravel. Walker and I had a countdown of the kilometers. Excitedly we dismounted where the gravel ended and the pavement (tarred road) started. The moment had to be celebrated. I, in a manner of speaking, enjoyed overcoming the challenge, but I paraphrased Mike Hennessy RIP, God be good to him, in looking back and saying ‘Pog mo thoin, Dempster’. It had been a 900 km relationship for rougher for smoother etc.
We paused at the sign and pitied those we saw heading up the Dempster with their RVs etc. We tarried there for a while as others came in to celebrate the moment.Just as we met the junction with the Klondike Highway, we crossed the Klondike River, scene of so much activity during the Gold Rush of 18886-1889. Much of the panning then was on the Klondike and the Bonanza Creek. Looking at the landscape and growth around, they were some men. Remember a lot of their energy was utilized to get themselves and their gear here without highways.
At a T junction, we turned right and headed for Dawson. We still had 40 km to go (Tipp to Limerick). But it was on pavement and that made it more bearable. A headwind cut down our previous average of 21 km/hr. Walker and I pedaled on separately. Nothing of note along here as regards scenery. After 15 km Ed cycled with us and we decided on a rotation upping the pace to 23 km/hr. After a while Ed fell out but Corrine (Oregon) joined in and we tipped along at 25 km/hr to the outskirts of Dawson City.
Glad to see Westmark Hotel, our base for the Rest Day. Once I had contacted home (we’re on the grid once more) I headed for a shave and a shower. Such relief.Our tents from this morning needed drying and most were erected again in the warm sunshine. We’re located in the centre of town. Dawson City isn’t very big (pop 2000) is mainly a historic tourist town but some dredge mining is being done. Will find more about that tomorrow.
Naturally after more than a week on the move a load of laundry neede to be attended to and the hotel provided a most efficient coin service. I had all washed and dried in little over an hour and all for $4. Could have skipped the drying as it’s a great day for the drying outside and I have a clothes line and pegs. Possibly, I’m getting soft!With all practicalities attended to I headed downtown (2blocks) for dinner in the Eldorado Hotel. The streetscape is very Wild West with dusty streets, timber sidewalks and saloon swinging doors. Very reminiscent of Dodge City eleven years ago. Not too crowded, just myself and the local sheriff providing custom. I paid for my dinner. And what a well deserved juicy steak was served up with a glorious peppercorn sauce. He just had a burger and coke.
Later on I fell in with bad company, Walker and Anton (Slovenia) and was dragged (!) down to Diamond Tooth Gerties , a casino and music hall, for the dancing show typically provided for the mining men in town with their precious dust.
Shunned the casino tables but enjoyed the show and conveyed Tipperary wishes to the troupe afterwards together with Debbie (Eng). An enjoyable end to a landmark day.
By the way, those last 40 km into Dawson will have to be retraced on Monday morning as we leave heading for Whitehorse.
Going to enjoy the Rest Day.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.
Dick,after all that cycling I'm surprised you need a bed-time story at all to help you nod off! Best regards Miriam
ReplyDeleteThe Wild West for sure and you are really enjoying!!!!
ReplyDeleteRichard - I am loving your blog- thank you so much for doing it- Kathy
ReplyDelete