Tuesday July 23        Cycling Day 17

          Teslin (Y) to Divide Lodge ( Y)

Distance:  (Km) 142

Time:  7:07

Average Speed: (Km/ hr). 19.95

Ascent:  (m).  1260

Heart Rate: (beats / min). 124

Cumulative Distance:   (km). 1790

Cumulative Ascent :  (m). 14,117

Punctures so far : 0

Today was to be a long day of 142 km to Rancheria, the longest distance since that first day from Tuk on gravel. Yes, it was a long day as it turned out.

Just before 8 under an overcast sky we set out from the campground at Yukon Motel in Teslin. 

Straight away it was over the Teslin Bridge -the longes Bridge on the Alaska Highway at 584 metres. The surface is an open grid over the water; wouldn’t want to let the camera drop here.

And once across it straight into the first 2 km climb of the day. We climbed into fog- there was fog on the ground above 800 m during the early part of the day. Rear lights necessary again.Early on wind was not an issue but towards the end of my day a fresh headwind appeared that added an extra +1% at least to the road ahead.

Still on weather, just after lunch here were loud claps of thunder directly overhead but no rain. Above me a large black cloud hovered and I feared that I’d be drenched before the day was out. Nothing such transpired and I finished dry as a bone. But those who came into lunch after me were hammered by hailstones as large as marbles shortly after leaving. Those hailstones dinged helmets and riders removed their Garmins fearing the screens would be broken. This lasted just over a kilometer then all dry again, including the road. By the time I finished cycling it was 20 deg and sunny.

Early on in the day scenery was back to road, roadside and trees ad infinitum. No mountains till later on. But the fireweed returned. It had almost disappeared over the last few days. It makes the Highway so colourful and pleasing. Apparently it got its name from the fact that it’s the first plant to show after a forest fire. When the mountains did return, it gave the eye something to feast on.

Spotted no wildlife today except a dead porcupine on the centre of the road as I passed.

Today we dipped into the province of British Columbia(BC) from 40 till 90 km approx. Just a welcome sign, no other significant difference was evident. At 90 km we returned to the Yukon Territory and camp ther tonight.

For the last 10 days or s we have been cycling in the catchment area of the Yukon River which flows into the Bering Sea. Today I crossed over the continental divide and returned to the catchment area of the Mackenzie which flows up into the Arctic Ocean. So, that’s my second cycling crossing of the continental divide. And my third will come very soon. More of that later.

A few cycling tourists case against us today. I was intrigued by one with the dog out in front as he pedaled up a hill. Cyclists behind me said he was in the trailer when they met.

At 1 km as promised we had the second 2 km climb. The photo just shows the first km at 7%; over the ‘crest’ and then another km at 5%. Glad to get to the top of that one.

Now how did my day finished? Today’s scheduled ride was 142 km to Rancheria RV Motel. Shortly after lunch (around 100km) Colleen(staff) came against me in the truck with a message that I took up wrongly.i took it she was telling me that the sign for the continental divide was at 127.9 km on the right hand side...for a photo. In fact, the real message was ‘in another 27.9 km pull into the Continental Divide Lodge on the right hand side ....for camp.

At 124 km, I motored on and waved to the bikers coming out of the Continental Divide Lodge.

One of them pulled over and enquired how far we cycle each day. I gave him an impressive answer. 

I continued upwards and onwards on new (rough aggregate) surface with the continental divide appearing up ahead. Cheered myself and whooped for crossing that milestone.

And then downhill (still on that rough surface) but with the river now going my way

In time I spotted the Rancheria RV Motel I the distance. I made it. Pulled in to behold ‘Closed for the season’. I cycled about but not a sign of life, TDA or otherwise. Totally abandoned. To complete the scene all I needed to hear was the theme music from ‘The Good, The Bad and the Ugly’ and see tumbleweed blowing by.

Now what do? Checked my phone but no service, so I couldn’t ring TDA staff. Cycle back but where would I cycle to? I went through a couple of scenarios. The nuclear option was to stay here for the night - I had two sandwiches and a bottle of water and an extra coat in the pannier. I found an abandoned Subaru in good condition with the back door unlocked - would do as a bunk. I could see the night out and hopefully meet up with the lads as they passed sometime in the morning. So I wasn’t worried for myself. I knew that the TDA staff would be worrying for a cyclist not marked ‘In camp’

Within an hour (I had arrived at 3:30) Lucinda drove in, in the TDA truck. They had missed me in camp and she reckoned that may have gone to Rancheria, as originally planned.

We loaded the bike into the truck and headed back 18 km to the Continental Divide Lodge. It was strange viewing the countryside through a windscreen. So I came back over the Continental Divide again and will cycle across it again tomorrow morning as I re-ride those 18 km.

Thunder and lightning and heavy rain again as we huddled for dinner under the shelters. But sky has cleared now (9pm) and atmosphere has lightened.

Lovely spot to write up the blog.

All part of an interesting day

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

PS: Terrible  thunder and lightning storm later on from 12 midnight till 1am, with rain but no wind. Could read with the lightning. Then passed on.