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Monday August 19         Cycling Day 39

       St Mary (Mont)  to Apgar (Mont)

Distance:  (Km). 79

Time:  3:59

Average Speed: (Km/ hr). 19.7

Ascent:  (m).  808

Heart Rate: (beats / min).  107

Cumulative Distance:   (km). 4299

Cumulative Ascent :  (m). 37,204

Punctures so far : 1

An early start this morning. Alarm at 5am, breakfast at 6:15 and on the road at 6:30. Today was for the Road to the Sun, a 76 km iconic drive or ride here in Glacier Park.

A dry night and a pleasant 8 deg as we sat around for breakfast. Not the freezing conditions of some recent mornings.

Light was just up as we hit out, the sun hitting the higher ground. In St Mary’s we turned right and entered into Glacier National Park. It’s a $12 self registration to be placed in an envelope as you enter. As we rode in no envelopes at the station, so no option but to press on. Hope we wouldn’t be checked.

Originally called the Transmountain Road, it was built during the period 1911-1933 and then renamed Road to the Sun. One explantation is that in a legend of the Blackfeet tribe, one of their heroes, once his duty was done returned to the above from the mountain at the pass, Mount Clements now, but the Blackfeet referred it to as ‘To the Sun he goes Mountain’. Today’s profile was simply an inverted V, up to 31 km, down to 79 km.

Our early start was necessitated by the fact that cyclists are not allowed on this twisty, no shoulder road between 11am and 4 pm, the busy motorists period. So we had to be up and over and down to camp by 11 am. If found on the road during that curfew period, the bike is impounded till 4pm and probably a few stiff words.

All proceeded well for the first 20 km. Nice morning views on the left hand side and self nicely warmed up so shed two layers. At 20 km a 11 km climb started at average 5.5%. Climbs like this aren’t new to us so no one was frightened. The early part was still in trees, very close to the road. The road was planned to blend in with the surroundings and not look like a scar. 

Glacier National Park is very short on glaciers now. When the Park was established in 1910, there were 100 glaciers; in 2015 only 25 can be designated as active glaciers. All have receded dramatically since 1966. I stopped to view the Jackson Glacier, the largest one remaining, only a fragment of what it was in 1910. And they reckon it will totally disappear in the next 50 years.

Once out of the trees the views were beautiful off to my left and the sun coming from behind helped.

Just one hairpin on the way up at Pigeon Creek and soon the prominent Clements Mountain (2670m) appeared in the distance. And special scenery across the valley.

The road twisted around walls of sheer rock and I always hoping that this was the final turn. (I did pass a few of our cyclists on the way up especially near the end)

And then that final bend and the Information Centre just up ahead. And I was there before 9am after 2:07 in the saddle and before the souvenir shop opened for business. Car park already full with many all prepared for a days hiking along the trails. 

I felt pleased to have crossed this pass which also marks the continental divide. We’re now on the Pacific side.

We were advised to be left the top by 9:50 in order to be out by 11. I left just before 9:30 so I reckoned that I had a few minutes to spare.

Some fabulous views on the way down. I stopped a number of times to take it all in. Massive stretches of rock, trees and valley. Sheer rockface on my right with it weeping in spots. Cyclists still coming up from the western end and cars and tour cabs pulled in at pull offs. A typical tourist thing to do is to take one of those red open-top coaches to do the trip up and down.

It was 12 km without turning the pedals bringing me around the one hairpin coming down and into the trees.

Now I needed to pedal and it seemed so strange. And in those trees it was very very cold, much colder than on the way up. And still 32 km to go. I only wished that I’d come out of those trees and into a bit of sunshine.

By Lake McDonald I started to glance at my watch. I still had 20 km to go on level ground and only 20 mins available. Not on. I pedaled hard but as the clock struck, I was just at 68 km, 10 km more to go.

Dilemma! Plan A was to pull off at a layby and wait for the shuttle to take me out of the park. I opted for that.  In the space of 20 mins, two of them passed but their bike racks at the front were full.

So now Plan B it was. Pedal on, give it holly and hope for the best. The road had a good surface, not too twisty and traffic was light. (I’m used to cycling with no shoulder. Some of the group freak out unless there is a wide shoulder.) The kms kept clicking up and I hoping no Park Ranger was on patrol.....that would be me locked up till 4pm. No breaks; no photos. I made it to the turn off to the right for the campground and I eased off the pedals once around the corner. Such relief when I cycled into camp at 11:45.

So all set up here now among the trees enjoying the sunshine and the heat and the silence as most of the others are gone cycling to the small town of Apgar (1.3km). Might ride down that way later on.

Yeah, I went down around 4pm when all was attended to. And Apgar has one of those classy establishments also vending ice-cream mostly. And plenty of clients. Order at one window and collect at another.

And Apgar is at the end of Lake McDonald. Logan Pass is off at the other end and it was down the side of the lake I was speeding shortly after 11. I scarcely saw that lake. Most peaceful now. A clear sunny day makes all the difference.

So an exciting and fulfilling day on this iconic road; the views were worth all the climbing....and lovely weather for a change. Pity I had to rush at the end.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.