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Monday July 22        Cycling Day 16

        Squanga Lakes (Y) to Teslin (Y)

Distance:  (Km). 72

Time:  3:14

Average Speed: (Km/ hr). 22.3

Ascent:  (m). 466

Heart Rate: (beats / min). 109

Cumulative Distance:   (km). 1648

Cumulative Ascent :  (m). 12,857

Punctures so far : 0

No rain during the night but tent fly sheet wringing in the morning. Just as well I brought a roll of bin liners to isolate such wet items in the daily bag. All up and assembled in plenty of time for breakfast at 7:30.

News of Kim our injured rider was good. Staying in Whitehorse for possible surgery on broken little finger but anxious to get back on the bike. She arrived back in camp this evening, a splint on the finger and the bruised ribs only hurt when she laughs. Luckily for her, that particular surgeon only comes to Whitehorse twice a year and he arrived yesterday. Given the all clear to resume riding when she feels fit. And she has a new helmet.

Out on the road before 8 and heavy fog for the first 20 km. Very light traffic but most equipped with rear flashing lights. I had two - one on my rear trunk bag and another built into my helmet. As kms passed the fog lingered just in the hollows but in time all burned off and I shedded the fleece and the rain jacket I had set out with. The rest of this short day was dry and calm till just before the end.

Soon I cycled over the reconstructed Teslin Bridge (wasn’t due for completion till Oct 2019) over the Teslin River which eventually flows into the Yukon. Plenty of swallow activity as I passed.  Teslin Lake is a long narrow lake ( one of many such in the vicinity) at 148 km from end to end. This lake was generally in view all day, a day that was more down than up.

The map shows our route along the Alaska Highway from Whitehorse (just outside the top left hand corner) with Rest Day’s in Watson Lakes and Fort Nelson till we finish this section in Fort St John on Aug 2.

Last night I read of the attractive (?) package on offer to those involved in the construction of this highway in 1942. ‘ June 15, 1942:  Men  hired for this job will be required to work and live under the most extreme conditions imaginable. Temperatures will range from 90 above to 70 below zero. Men will have to fight swamps, rivers, ice and cold. Mosquitoes, flies and gnats will not only be annoying but will cause bodily harm. If you are not prepared to work under these and similar conditions DO NOT APPLY.” 

Again I was on the watch out for bears. Alexandra(Ger) who had been cycling behind me told me that she had spotted one back the road. Never cycle back! I didn’t spot any bears but I passed spots where bears had been and left their mark recently.

And two touring cyclists all loaded up heading the other direction exchanged waves with me. I wish them the best. I wonder if they are contemplating the Dempster?

At 66 km I pulled into the Teslin Tlingit Heritage Centre. First item on the agenda was to check for a signal. Bingo...and I received, from a number of ye, the good news that Shane had kept his cool and kept his6 shot lead in spite of the conditions. Clara and Esker Hills won’t be the same for a long time. Well done, Shane.In the centre, after paying my senior citizen fee, I signed the visitors book proudly mentioning his feat.

The Tlingit are one of the fourteen First Nation peoples in the Yukon. Originally from the Alaska region they were hunters and trappers and traded their acquisitions with the Russian community around Sitka and Scagway on the coast of present day Alaska. They value their customs and traditions and all feature here in the Centre on the shores of Teslin Lake.

 I spoke to one of the guides about their history but I missed the demonstration of wood carving taking place in one of the cabins, but the totem poles outside display their expertise. Cultural programmers were taking place down by the shore. 

Strangely enough cedar dug-out boats featured among Yukon craft. Cedar wouldn’t be growing here but such boats appear in photos from the Gold Rush days. There was one on show inside and a replica on the beach for use by groups. There will be a two-day gathering of the Tlingit communities here in a few days. Would be a colourful affair.

Almost all the cyclists dropped into the centre with it being a short day and the centre just 6 km short of camp. And lunch was served in a lakeside rest area in those last 6 km.Anton (Slovenia) one of the stronger riders in the group, who has cycled extensively all over the world (but is really a mountain biker) has a rare cycling setup. Most days he cycles in crocs. The bike has a strange geometry with Rohloff gears and a carbon chain (lookslikearubber band). But he really moves. He’s one of the first into camp each evening...and a really nice guy.

But at lunch dark clouds were coming our way and drops began to fall. Back on with the rain jacket and high-tailed it to camp to erect the tent before things got heavier.

Camp is behind the Yukon Motel on nice grassy pitches. I got in at 1 pm and got tent up and weather sealed while the rain was still light. It got heavier and rained consistently for an hour but all clear again at 3pm. 

A number of cyclists have checked into cabins/rooms at the motel. They had organised this independently of the weather. I am more than pleased to reside in my North Face Yellow Temple. It’s as comfy as any room. In Australia 2013, Paul, Woody and I opted for the cabins/rooms at every opportunity we got. I must be getting hardier!!

All is calm and warm here now at 4 pm as I sit outside the said  tent writing this. The sky looks settled and here’s to another good long night’s sleep

And all sunny for Riders Meeting at 6pm and for dinner. As wash-up proceeded dark clouds moved in and a downpour from 7 till 8.

A short day but two more much longer ones before next Rest Day in Watson Lake.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.